10 Reasons to Find Seoul
My late father spoke Korean fluently as an asset for U.S. intelligence. How cool would it have been to call him up and talk about what I was seeing…or get tips on how to charm women.
Also, I have family of Korean descent. Knowing they have never been and quite possibly never will see the country is motivation for me. I had to absorb as much as possible about a place with such a history.
Last, I was one roundhouse kick away from a black belt in Tae Kwon Do. My two older brothers and I took lessons for years. We loved it and my brother Anthony stuck with it for many years competing at a high level. I’ll never forget the early mornings with my father to see him spar…those are special memories.
Upon landing in Seoul, it doesn’t take long to notice a difference between neighboring China. The streets were clean, the taxi driver was sharp, and I didn’t fear for my life as I often did on a Beijing highway.
1. Taste The Spicy Octopus
I dropped my things off and peaked around alleys looking for food. Eventually I discovered this great little family owned restaurant. Advertisements label it as an ideal spot to find jjukkumi, one of Korea’s well known spicy octopus dishes. The approach just felt right as I walked in and the older couple greeted me with a comforting smile, as if to say “You’re welcome here”.
For those feeling less adventurous, try the pajeon which is a seafood and vegetable pancake. Or do sundae, which is blood sausage stuffed with noodles. Kimchi is probaby most recognizable to foreigners. Each are Korean specialties. Save the best for last, and go find a street vendor cooking up Korean BBQ. Bulgogi is life changing.
2. Changing of The Guard at Deoksugung Palace
Deoksugung Palace was my first stop of interest as it was only a five minute walk from the hotel. Explore this walled compound of palaces that was inhabited by several Korean dynasties until the start of the 20th Century. As one of the most revered eras in Korean history, the Joseon dynasty ruled for over 500 years. During that time a collection of five grand palaces were built across the city of Seoul.
There are various types of buildings, some constructed of wood, stucco, and even western architecture. The gardens and fountain are still as beautiful as before. Each day there is a changing of the guard ceremony involving men dressed in the attire of royalty and carrying weapons used in those times.
One man rhythmically sounds the drum as they march in unison. It’s certainly catered towards tourists, but if you can allow your imagination to block that small piece of information out it’s a special experience.
3. Walk Gwanghwamun Square
I moved on to Gwanghwamun Square which provides a variety of entertainment, including musicians and street performers. Don’t miss the huge statue of Sejong The Great. If you’re lucky you’ll find a Korean martial arts master!
In my experience it was sobering to find families mourning and petitioning for lost loved ones. Nearly 5 years ago, the MV Sewol ferry sunk off the coast of South Korea.Over 300 people were on the boat, mostly high school students and teachers. Pictures of the dead were scattered all around.
As a result, the families were there to petition for a few things. They wanted the missing individuals to be found and returned to their families. They wanted recovery of the ship itself, so that some investigation can be done and answers provided. Last, they wanted punishment for those responsible for this horribly tragic event that took so many young lives.
4. Traditional Korean Homes in Bukchon
Climb up to the old Hanok style village called Bukchon. Bukchon has more than 600 years of history, dating back to the Joseon dynasty. Hanok is an architectural style used in construction of traditional Korean homes. This particular village is composed of several different neighborhoods. Some blended with modern shops, cafes, and restaurants, and others holding true to their peaceful beginnings. There are several narrow alleys providing a fun maze for tourists to get lost while ascending or descending the mountain.
Talk to people. They’ll greet you with a smile. I enjoyed watching a food vendor engage her customers with unbelievable charm. One can’t help but feel a warm sense of community. Several groups of young teenage boys would stop by and grab a bite. Each one of them had this connection with her, as if they were family. In a city of nearly 10 million, I’d say that’s pretty special.
5. Palaces of Korea’s Joseon Dynasty
Changdeokgung Palace is another one of the grand palaces built by the infamous Joseon dynasty. Each complex is absolutely massive in size, and amazing how they fit right in the heart of a metropolitan city. But it’s important to remember that each one of these Korean gems was much different before the Japanese occupation of the country in the early 1900’s. Venture through the different buildings and gardens, admire the wooden structures and their rich blend of colors.
6. Experience Korean Baseball at Jamsil Stadium
Do NOT miss the Jamsil Stadium! They love baseball in Seoul. I would go as far as saying they love baseball more than Americans do, and once you see a game there’s no chance one could disagree. You can ride the subway right to the stadium!
The game truly was a unique experience because Koreans love baseball. From start to finish the energy is electric, and there is no end to the entertainment. An emcee and cheerleaders stand atop the home team’s dugout and put on a show. There’s music, dancing, and non-stop cheering from the fans. I’m not exaggerating. It doesn’t stop.
Ever pass out at an MLB game before? For most the answer is probably yes. Guess what…it would NEVER happen at an LG Twins game in Seoul!
7. Drink and Party in Itaewon…or do it Gangnam Style
When it comes to partying, South Koreans do not mess around. Visit the areas of Itaewon or Gangnam to find out for yourself. I met some Americans at the baseball game. We went out in Itaewon where I met this Korean guy in the bathroom in quite an awkward exchange, mostly inspired by his state of intoxication.
Somehow we became best friends when I told him my nationality and he hung with our group for most of the night. At some point he even invited me out to the housewarming party at this new place. I believe that was the soju talking, but nonetheless he was a cool guy.
Do not miss the Gangnam District. This is essential to Seoul.
8. Embrace Korean Folk Culture
The next day was reserved for visiting the most highly regarded of the grand palaces in Seoul, the Gyeongbokgung Palace. It was the hub of the infamous Joseon Dynasty, and the largest of their five palaces. Each of the palaces were extremely damaged if not completely destroyed, by the vicious era of the Japanese. The restoration is a testament to Korean perseverance. It was here that the kings and government officials resided.
Be sure to find the Folk Museum which discusses different myths and folk customs of Koreans. My favorite are the Jangseung, or wooden totem poles of eerily carved faces that were placed outside villages to protect from bad spirits.
9. Peaceful Public Parks
I made my way around the palace through more gardens to a peaceful pond with beautiful reflections of the pagodas. The sky was blue and free of clouds.
Seoul offers several different areas with major parks, districts, and universities. Each seems to have something different to offer. Visitors will find some devoted to art, shopping, nightlife, sports, and several concerned with preserving Korean culture.
10. Dive In The DMZ
Early rise this morning to get to the demilitarized zone, separating the infamously awful North Korea from South Korea. As we approached the border it was incredible to realize how one of Asia’s greatest economies could be neighbored by such an ill-advised government and brainwashed population.
I had the chance to go into a tunnel built by the North with intentions of a planned invasion. The story goes that when discovered, the North Koreans claimed they were “mining for coal”. Ummmmm…yeah right.
The amazing part is to this day only a handful of these have been found. Former military officials from North Korea who have since defected to the South claim there are over twenty of these tunnels!
My tour guide humored me with stories of petty, immature things the North has done to show its phantom sense of superiority. One that I can remember is the North building a taller flag pole than the South. No human rights, public services, separating families which haven’t been reunited in dozens of years. BUT there’s plenty of priority for a larger flag pole. Hmmmm.
While you’re in the area, don’t miss the local stores carrying smuggled products from the North and a train station that facilitated a route over the border to Pyongyang. Ride at your own risk! Kidding…doesn’t work!!
