8 Motives To Prioritize Peru
Flying by the seat of my pants has positioned me for another globetrotting scramble. After a week in Ecuador I decided to spend the next week exploring Peru. Flights aren’t cheap, bus rides are long, and I needed to optimize precious time. After some thought, the solution was a bus ride across the Peruvian border where I could then fly to Cusco with a cheaper domestic route. Easier said than done, as I discovered securing a specific, last minute bus itinerary from one of nearly one hundred Spanish speaking vendors was no easy task.
Peru Travel Guide
Tumbes was the interchange between Quito and Cusco. After waiting several hours our bus headed south for the Peruvian border. I elected for the overnight option equipped with comfortable recliners. Certainly there are far more comfortable modes of travel, but when money is tight sleep becomes less of a priority.
1. Cusco, The Former Capital Of The Incan Empire
Flying into the former capital of the Incan Empire positioned me over 11,000 feet above sea level. Contrary to common elevation challenges, I had little issue acclimating. My first task was to book the Machu Picchu tour. It’s ideal to take the coveted Incan Trail but time was not on my side. After checking in the accomodation I advise a walk around the meticulously maintained city.
Spectacular Spanish architecture still stands strong. Unbelievable local cuisine served around every corner…especially good at Nina Chay. I was fascinated how many Peruvian elders still dressed themselves in cultural, vibrant colors that accentuated perfectly braided, jet black hair flowing from underneath hats. For a while I had the feeling Cusco hadn’t changed since colonial times…how refreshing. But then globalization slapped me in the face with a plaza full of Pokemon Go fanatics. What a buzz kill. Nights turn cold very quick in the Andes and I made way back to Hotel Panaka.
2. Ollantaytambo Along The Urubamba River
The morning train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes was preceded by a 4am van ride through the mountains. Another case of being stuffed in a small space with aggressive local drivers and unfamiliar people I can’t communicate with…but these moments I embrace as comfort zone breaches.
Sunrise in Ollantaytambo exposed a plethora of carefully crafted ruins surrounding the area…one of Peru’s preserved Incan communities. When the train departed I was fortunate to share travel stories and perspective with some local Turkish girls and an Australian guy. The excitement of experiencing Machu Picchu was too strong to contain…and we didn’t fight our child-like joy.
Coupled with anticipation is the unescapable tourist pandemonium at a world wonder. An incompetent guide amongst the madness will only magnify it. Unfortunately I was the unlucky traveler this time, and it cost me hours of standing in line. Sometimes it’s just hard to avoid.
3. Machu Picchu, The World Wonder
Machu Picchu was always on my radar but a conversation with my grandmother while boarding the Chicago-Quito flight magnified a new level of personal significance. When I was young…my grandfather, father and uncle planned to visit but some complications didn’t allow the trip to come to fruition. Sadly my uncle managed to be the only of three to make it before all passing away. Overwhelming chills thinking about it even now…obviously accented my perspective on this unique experience in their honor.
The weather couldn’t have been better and we pushed out from Aguas Calientes over the last mountain. Clear skies let the sun shine on this perfect piece of Incan engineering. Even with pictures from every vantage point…it’s impossible to recreate the magnitude of its presence.
On the hike up I met Stefano, a solo Italian traveler also attacking the treacherous sun gate hike. We encountered breathless tourists gasping for air and some friendly animals scrounging for a meal…(still unsure if they were alpacas or llamas)…the overwhelming feeling was gratitude this wonder went untouched by Spanish colonists. Admiration of greatness and remembering lost loved ones found me literally the last to leave the park…eventually making my peace as the staff kindly ushered me out.
Back in Aguas Calientes we ordered a few Cusquena lagers to wash down some Aji de Gallina, a rich Peruvian chicken dish. Minor detail but the locally brewed Cusquena has a world leading beer label design. I digress…After dinner we called it a night and checked into the mildew scented hotel room…not ideal but at this point I can sleep through mostly anything.
4. Incan Ruins of Sacsayhuaman and Tambomachay
I returned to Cusco to see the ruins of Sacsayhuaman and Tambomachay, where impeccable engineering holds strong hundreds of years later. Considering a lack of technological assets, it’s pretty amazing what the Incans were able to accomplish…water still flows from irrigation designed hundreds of years ago. The last tour of the day involved paying homage to a Peruvian novelty…the alpaca. These friendly animals have wool-like fiber that has been used for centuries to warm Peruvians dwelling in the Andes. Incredibly soft and comfortable, alpaca is also selling globally for thousands of dollars as luxury designer items. My budget only allowed for a few knit caps.
The bus ride closed with some American banter. A few couples also touring shared some great stories that I haven’t forgotten to this day. One in particular was a young father’s reflection on losing his son. A heartbreaking reminder to appreciate who and what you have as long as you have it. Experiences like these substantiate the value travel has to support a healthy perspective of life. As bad as we think we have it, most likely there are several others who have it worse.
5. Warachikuy Festival
My last day in Cusco was awesome. I slept in a little later than I’d like, but the timing managed to be perfect. Approaching Plaza de Armas I was summoned by the roaring chatter of local children and a beating drum. To my surprise today was Warachikuy, an Andean cultural heritage holiday ceremony where tested young boys could receive the official status of being an adult man. Peruvians packed the streets to watch groups of extravagantly costumed boys represent their culture.
6. Chinchero In The Sacred Valley
The party finished and I caught a bus to the small, rustic village of Chinchero. Famous for its Sunday market and panoramic views across the Sacred Valley of the Incas. I walked the peaceful cobblestone streets lined with mud brick houses. Women sold colorful wool and alpaca attire…it was cold there. The seventeenth century church built upon an Incan foundation maintained a beautifully designed interior, but no pictures allowed inside.
7. Lake Titicaca and The Uros Islands
Lake Titicaca’s rich Incan history and floating islands diverted my attention away from a denied Bolivian entry and I caught the next shared van ride. The journey was far from luxurious but I assume it’s quite convenient and affordable for the locals.
Puno is the town I chose while visiting the world’s highest navigable body of water. After a few hours of booking and finding the hotel, the boat left for the floating islands. The indigenous peoples dwell on Lake Titicaca supported by bundled totora reeds. Yes, incredible and quite hard to understand, but these islands are sustained by layers of reed created from the dense roots. As the layers rot away, residents must frequently relay the surface to stay afloat.
A perplexing life to sustain but self-governance and tax free privileges carry enough value for a lifestyle maintained over 500 years. People seemed genuinely happy, especially a young girl fascinated by my beard. We made a nice connection and although she was yanking hairs from my face, she was just too cute to stop.
8. Lima, Gastronomic Capital Of The Americas
Moving on to my final stretch in the gastronomic capital of Lima, I thought I’d never go back to Titicaca. (Little did I know I’d misplace my passport on the bus and be forced to spend days finding it.) Miraflores is the most popular district stretching over the Pacific coast with trendy neighborhoods and world renowned restaurants. A stroll through the streets led me to La Mar, where they offer crazy good ceviche.
The curiosity of Lima’s finest attractions inspired me to scan the checkered boardwalk in search of a guided bus tour. We cruised the central historic district for views of Plaza Mayor, San Isidro, and Huaca Pucllana. The most interesting piece was a tour at the Convento de San Francisco. This 350 year old Catholic masterpiece maintains a fabulous antique library and catacombs which hold over 25,000 dead bodies buried before an actual cemetery opened. A winding maze with secret passageways, visitors are given access to several chilling rooms full of skulls and bones.
The last few hours in Lima were spent exploring the streets. Feeling regretful to see this unique experience end but grateful to have lived it for those who weren’t able to.
Visit Peru…Taste the ceviche. Survey the ruins. Absorb the color…Leave enlightened.
