Road Trip to El Salvador
Driving through El Salvador is the right way to go. During a two-month Spanish immersion in Guatemala, my friends and I used the weekends for road trips out of Antigua. We looked at Mexico, Honduras, and Belize, but eventually agreed on El Salvador as the destination.
Of course the bus is a viable option, but over time I’ve become a big believer in exploring by car. While the risk and price can be high, it’s tough to deny the value on the convenience and flexibility of controlling your transportation.
My faithful road trip partners were Damaris and Marcus. I met Damaris in Spanish class. She had just begun a year-long hiatus from the teacher life in Switzerland to travel and add a fifth language to her repertoire. Slightly impressive.
Marcus is a native Guatemalan who was adopted and raised in the USA. He was back in the homeland with the intention of finding his biological family. We became friends playing ultimate frisbee and found quite a few things in common, aside from the obvious.
It’s not uncommon to hear stories of road trips gone bad in Central America. Certainly there is some risk driving in El Salvador. Just remember the secondhand stories may have been fabricated and most likely are isolated incidents.
Guatemala to El Salvador
The border crossing can be intimidating and give cause for reluctance. In our approach, the gringo skin immediately signaled a few well dressed hustlers garnering phony credentials to target us with a customs scheme. We kindly declined their assistance. Not my first rodeo.
As one should in any new country, stay alert for attempts to snag money, possessions, or even worse…a passport. Use caution, exercise common sense, and be respectful.
El Salvador has its share of faults. But the reality is that crime and corruption run rampant all over the world. The majority of humans have the right intentions. I try to approach each situation with an open mind and look for the good in it. While you’re searching, keep an eye out for all the positive Salvadoran vibes coming at ya.
Suchitoto
Nestled in the mountains of central El Salvador is the colonial town of Suchitoto. All of its cobblestone streets lead to the central park where locals congregate to have church, share meals, or just bring the children together.
Visitors are welcome to all of the above. Don’t leave without browsing the quaint art galleries or quirky cafes for some world renowned coffee. The little caffeine jolt will be good for a stroll down to the nearby Lago Suchitlán.
El Tunco
The little surfing village of El Tunco will always have a special place in my heart, and it’s largely because of the coastal orientation with water. The Salvadoran village is perfectly positioned to enjoy the unforgettable sunrise and sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
If you are driving in El Salvador, reaching the most popular tourist attraction from the airport will take just under an hour. This beach town is very popular spot for younger travelers as it offers good value accommodations, an active nightlife, and of course inexpensive surfing lessons.
We didn’t try our luck on the waves because the days were filled road tripping around the country. I gotta admit I have regret about it, considering the only other time I have surfed was over ten years ago on a brisk February day in Ireland.
Not exactly ideal conditions to surf in that day. To make a long story short, it was snowing and I all but thawed my way into hypothermia. Is there any surprise it wasn’t a good coming out party for me?
San Bartolomé Perulapía
When driving in El Salvador I recommend avoiding the madness of San Salvador. Between El Tunco and Suchitoto is a little town brought to life by murals. While there isn’t much to do for visitors, it’s worth 30-45 minutes of walking the streets.
San Bartolomé Perulapía is full of talented artists whose works tell layered stories of the Salvadoran history, culture, and religion amidst a wealth of natural beauty.
Tamanique
Just a short drive from El Tunco is another small town known for its robust Salvadoran coffee and avocados. While we didn’t carve out a window for either of those, we did fall into a crazy little adventure chasing some jungle waterfalls.
In our pursuit, Google Maps led us to some dead ends…which seemed to be a fairly normal consequence while driving in El Salvador’s remote locations. After circling around a second time casually dodging free roaming cattle, a Tamanique local took notice of the lost gringos and offered to guide us to the waterfalls.
Cue the anxiety. That two hour window of hiking the jungle was unrelenting mental torture. Swarms of spiders welcomed our search. As we got deeper, nearly every step was a surprise because visibility was minimal. Snakes? Spiders? Something worse…sayyy maybe a puma? It was a rollercoaster of discomfort.
My pride is stripped as I share this, but the unflinching local guide was a seventeen year old girl wearing nothing but a tank top, skirt, and sandals. Just a casual stroll for her!
El Tazumal
One of the Salvadorans’ greatest archaeological sites from the Mayan civilization is the pyramid of El Tazumal. The central location made this former city a pivotal point of trade flowing between Panama and Mexico.
Apparently El Tazumal in the Mayan dialect means “the place where souls are consumed”. Couple that information with the belief these ruins served an important ceremonial purpose and you get a decent presumption of what kind of madness took place here!
Lago de Coatepeque
Not far from Santa Ana is the massive crater lake which was once very sacred to the Mayans. The Salvadoran rich and famous have since built mansions on the shores to the sparkling blue water. Visitors can cast a line from the pier or rent a toy vessel to get on the water. There are also restaurants and hotels to relax for a few days’ stay while driving in El Salvador.
Cascadas Los Tercios
A short distance from Suchitoto is an incredibly unique waterfall. The hexagonally shaped rocks are a geologic wonder as they stack up against each other like a bunch of legos. The hike to Cascadas Los Tercios is just a short one, but a bit of a challenge without good shoes. (Speaking from experience.)
Parque Nacional Cerro Verde
If volcanoes are of interest, be sure to make a detour from Lago Coatepeque to Cerro Verde National Park. It’s fairly close. The spectacular views of the Izalco and Santa Ana volcanoes will leave you in awe. Get up close by trekking one of the guided trails, or enjoy a more relaxing experience in the orchid garden.
Set your home base at El Tunco for all the beach vacation feels and get a feel for the rest of Salvadoran greatness by car. It only takes a week to fall in love.
