5 Days Exploring Argentinian Patagonia
Argentinian Patagonia is a dream. The natural beauty of the region can compete with the best destinations around the world. Imagine a vibe where growth, development, and frankly money, are not the priority. There is a simplicity to life that I envy.
San Carlos de Bariloche
The quaint town of Bariloche is well known for its Swiss alpine-style architecture and chocolate. Travelers come from all over the globe to the nearby national parks for world class hiking, skiing, and several other activities in the great outdoors.
Nahuel Huapi National Park
Driving through Argentinian Patagonia’s north entrance at Nahuel Huapi National Park is magnificent. The beautiful Aspen-like homes fit perfectly between the Andes Mountains, which tower over the freshwater lakes, healthy vegetation, and imposing glaciers possessing the purest blues and greens on the spectrum.
Cerro Otto
One of the park’s greatest views can be appreciated from Cerro Otto. We chose to drive up the mountain, but visitors can also ride the cable car if preferred. The trails will lead in most directions for those willing to explore more. Our trek was a few hours or so. Foolishly we didn’t bring water…I don’t recommend making the same mistake. Clearly not smart, but I occasionally miss little details when caught up in the excitement of exploring.
We capped off the hike with some banter and maté conveniently shared by some local police women. Maté is a local favorite similar to tea, commonly shared to relax and talk. We enjoyed, but the caffeine-rich drink was only compounding our dehydration.
After showing due gratitude we found a convenience store and stocked up on lemonade, beer, and wine…each of which never tasted so good. Back at the hotel, cigars were lit to relax and catch up on life. The first night closed with another local favorite of Ojo de Bife and several flights of microbrews shared by Venezuelan colleagues. I can think of worse ways to end a day.
Patagonia Road Trip
The following morning I hopped in the rental car to soak up more of the Argentinian Patagonia experience. My drive was graced with stunning goldenrods that add vibrancy to the magic around Bariloche. Focusing on the road can be quite the challenge, but the 7 military checkpoints scattered around the park sober up that distracted feeling a bit. I imagine the checkpoints’ purpose is to maintain the utopia of the area.
I stopped to take pictures at some viewpoints and walked around a bit to enjoy the sun. Later my buddy and I made time for empanadas, trout, and more beef. Oh and of course, more cigars. With the ensuing Cerro Tronador trek in mind, we called it an early night. The anxiety of the unknown mountaineering challenges weighed heavily and we wanted to be prepared.
Cerro Tronador Hike
Pampa Linda
The tour bus from Bariloche brought us 3 hours into the Andes with a fun group on board, including a few Germans, English, and Czech. Pampa Linda was the trek launch. The destination for our overnight stay was at Refugio Otto Meiling, the hut where we would eat, sleep, and recharge before tackling Cerro Tronador.
Upon the bus arrival at Pampa Linda, there’s a small convenience store with restrooms to prep. Our journey commenced when the local dog casually had a piss all over Mike’s bag. He was less than thrilled, but a little comedic relief for a tough journey did not go unappreciated by me.
The trail winds over a river and through the woods. Trees are tall enough to obstruct the panoramic views for a few hours, but once you are high enough to find snow the views of Argentinian Patagonia are spectacular.
Along the way we were greeted by massive birds, an abandoned jeep with Arizona plates, and glacier streams of unlimited fresh drinking water to reward those exploring Argentinian Patagonia. Over time the winds picked up and a warm layer was necessary. The snow leftover from a previous storm showed no signs of melting and the next storm was brewing in the clouds that hung low to the mountaintops.
Refugio Otto Meiling
With Refugio Otto Meiling in the distance, the surrounding glaciers became visible, climbs proved to be steeper, and our heart rates scrambled to keep pace. Arrival at the more than 40 years old wooden shack brought the surprise of drunken Argentinians sharing wine around a table. By this point our bodies were in auto-pilot, uncertain of its ability to cope with the challenges Tronador would present the next morning. Needless to say, we didn’t fight the ensuing nap.
Our guide Mauricio kindly woke us to provide the expectations attached to this journey up Cerro Tronador, which only 30 crazies attempt each year. As nervous as we both were, the calming reassurance of Mauricio’s vibe put us more at ease.
After signing our lives away to a waiver form, we tried on the gear, played a weird German card game over German beers, and replenished our bodies with a bowl of delicious goulash.
The sleeping quarters housed 25 single mattresses laid side by side in the attic of the hut. No heat or electricity, those were minor details at this point. I considered it a win that I didn’t wake up to a drunken man snoring, farting, or rolling on top of me. Sometimes you gotta let the little wins shape your perspective.
Monte Tronador | 11,453 Feet
2:30AM wake up call. Here we go. Butterflies turned into bliss once we strapped in, tied up, and attacked this thing. The full moon and bright shining stars above us reflected against a mostly untouched foreground of white powder, and it set the scene for a magical course to the summit. The serenity was unforgettable.
Unbeknownst to us, the majority of our trek would be on glaciers. The path up a mountain is usually determined by weather-related variables which change quick and often. Fortunately the guide expressed his delight with the weather.
As the sun rose over the horizon it was evident there were no clouds in sight. We would later understand the unimaginable power of the sun left with sunburns not felt before.
The view up there is unexplainable. Look in every direction and you see mountains…and lakes…and blue skies. It’s majestic. If you’re lucky you’ll see some of the active volcanoes as well.
Challenges of Mountaineering
Learning to traverse and ascend a mountain with crampons, snow shoes, and other tactical gear is unsettling. On the trek we were challenged often. The most memorable was approaching the crevice of a glacier, making a wrong step, and falling through chest high. The struggle to get back on my feet was small, but the unknown risk with each step was mentally taxing.
Balancing the persistent fear is key. Without it, thoughts can open the doors to tragedy. But once you’ve overcome the crevices, falling rock, and supersonic winds, there is an overwhelming reward that can only be understood at the summit. Or in our case, about 10 meters from the summit. The guide advised that conditions were very risky, and we were content coming just short of 11,453 feet. No summit flags that day.
Apparently it was silly to assume the initial descent would get easier. Less challenging on the heart for sure, but not so kind to the rest of the body. Had the two of us not been in such great shape I imagine balance and mental stability would’ve been less achievable.
Fortunately, the last hour of snowshoeing back to the hut was a breeze with the snow’s consistency. It improved our pace and impact, drifting with the graceful motion of what I imagine a skier must feel.
With an upcoming flight to El Calafate in the morning, we weren’t afforded the luxury of a second night at the hut. After a short stop and snack, we kept it moving towards Pampa Linda to meet our transport. No less than 16 hours up and down mountains put our hips, knees, and feet both in a condition never felt. No words could describe the pain.
El Calafate
Turquoise blue lakes give welcome as visitors fly into El Calafate. This small town in Argentinian Patagonia is growing in size and charm each year as hotels, bars, and restaurants open up on every corner.
After an averted crisis at the rental car agency, also known as me trying to rent without a valid driver’s license, we popped into the local restaurant Mako for delicious steak, pizza, and microbrews. It was a nice way to refuel and recount the events of the last few days.
Perito Moreno Glacier
Stomachs were happy and we made our way to the mind blowing Perito Moreno glacier. What an unbelievable sight. At 19 miles long, 3 miles wide, and protruding nearly 600 feet from an emerald green lake, the magnitude of both size and beauty is jaw dropping from every vantage point.
Like kids in a candy store, we spent hours watching massive chunks of this beast break off into the water, sending undeniably powerful waves of both water and noise in our direction. Never saw anything like it before. We stayed till sunset and called it a day.
El Chaltén
Despite an overwhelming reminder from our bodies that rest was urgent, we chose to drive 3 hours to El Chaltén. The hype of Fitz Roy sucked us in.
As the newest town in Argentina, El Chaltén is incredibly charming as a hub for exploring the north end of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. After a small breakfast and conversations with other hiking American physicians, the trek began.
Monte Fitz Roy
The duration of the hike provides an amazing view of Monte Fitz Roy. It felt like 4-5 hours but based on stops, pictures, and piss stops, it’s hard to accurately describe how long it takes. Make no mistake, the last hour up is a treacherous one. Sliding rocks on a steep slope make it quite challenging.
Of course the difficulty becomes a minor detail once you arrive at the base, with a gorgeous view stretching over the aqua blue lake and up to the snow capped peaks. It is incredible, and just when you’re ready to turn back because you think you’ve seen it all, keep an eye out for the grey fox guiding visitors around the left side and up to an even better vantage point. Now you have not one, but two heavenly blue lakes nestled within a mountain landscape straight from a fairy tale.
The walk back felt like it took forever. Consecutive days of hiking mountains in Argentinian Patagonia is a challenge to say the least, so we rewarded ourselves with another fat slab of red meat and several local brews. And of course, it wouldn’t have been a Patagonian adventure without another cigar to reminisce on the day’s events, so we obliged.
Few Gas Stations in Patagonia
The next morning was a frantic start and unexpected end to the Argentinian Patagonia experience. Mike had an early flight from the airport which was hours away, so we needed to hustle. We were set to pay and head out, but there were no hotel staff in the lobby to settle the balance. Desperate times call for desperate measures…we booked it.
Fleeing in the getaway car, the low fuel alarm pinged. Impeccable timing. I scrambled the guidebook for a stop between A and B to fill up on gas. To no surprise, the only option was a very small travelers’ ranch with a convenience store. Ironically enough, that stop also happened to be where the American outlaws Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid found cover while fleeing extradition in the early 1900’s. I couldn’t believe this was our only play, but all things considered it seemed appropriate.
It was 6am when we pulled up to the ranch and there was no life in sight. I hopped out to find some help, but no doors were answered. I snuck around the back and got in a side door. It was silent as can be, with old wood floors and an infrastructure that hadn’t changed likely since the bandits visited.
The main office was stocked with trinkets and souvenirs, not to mention the mugshots of Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. I found a small outhouse behind the office with some bananas and other supplies. More importantly, there was a gas can, although we couldn’t be sure if it was just diesel fuel for some maintenance equipment?
Laughing to ourselves, Mike and I filled up the little red getaway car in disbelief of our circumstance. Two kids from the Midwest…in Argentinian Patagonia…on the run and stealing gas from a ranch where once famous American outlaws hid from the law. As if the mountains hadn’t already tested our fortitude enough.
