Charmed By Antigua
Of all the countries visited, Guatemala is without question one of the most memorable. And surprisingly so, considering that just weeks before my arrival I knew very little about what to expect. Truthfully, if I hadn’t been looking for accelerated Spanish programs abroad, it’s very possible I may have never gone.
Spanish Immersion in Guatemala
Having just left my previous employer, I carved out some time before starting my new job and based myself in the popular town of Antigua for two months. The plan was to study six hours daily Monday-Friday with local Spanish teachers, and use the weekends for exploring the country with fellow classmates. (If looking for a Spanish teacher in Antigua, find Margarita with Maximo Nivel. She’s the best. I still do Skype class with her.)
To get a more authentic experience, I elected to stay in the home of a prearranged local host. What a pleasure it was to stay with Irasema, an older Guatemalan woman with an innate motherly instinct. The house was only a ten minute walk from the centrally located school. I had a small room and bed, with breakfast and dinner prepared daily. And to my surprise there was a basketball court just across the street. It was meant to be.
Gringo in Guatemala
I will never forget the cadence and rhythm with which Irasema spoke. I remember best the mornings when her slippers would slide across the tile floor as she approached my door and knocked, summoning me with a “Maarrrcuuuuss…desayuuunnnoooo!” Impossible to recreate her delivery in text, but trust me it was gold. She made me feel twenty years younger and it brought a smile to my face every time.
At the table we would share breakfast or dinner as time for me to practice my Spanish. Having been a teacher herself, her kind smirks were a friendly reminder of my slow Gringo delivery. Irasema also loved to recall stories about her other American guest and all the girls he was chasing. And she was consistently funny, nothing was ever filtered!
Irasema had two Dachshunds and two unidentified species of felines. Not a big cat guy. Within my first week the boldest of the weiner dogs left an obligatory puddle of piss next to my bed. Despite the blatant disrespect I developed a soft spot for the little bastard. Dogs are a weakness of mine! And…considering the massive cockroaches that scurried around the home thereafter, the piss was trivial in comparison.
Antigua, Guatemala
Antigua was the capital of Guatemala for over 200 years, until a handful of earthquakes prompted leadership to relocate to Guatemala City. A ramification of the Spanish Conquest, the small town has become a UNESCO World Heritage treasure as it’s positioned around three volcanoes and built with ornate, colorful colonial architecture along its cobblestone streets.
With a population of about 50,000 people, visitors are offered a spectacularly intimate experience with Los Guatemaltecos and several activities or attractions. Besides the people I met and still current relationships developed, some of my favorite memories of Antigua are a blend of the history, trekking, and sustainability around town.
Historical Attractions of Antigua
Although the manner by which the Spanish colonized the Americas can be kindly described as unpopular, the architectural remnants are quite an aesthetically pleasing byproduct of the aggression. Antigua is a perfect place to explore by foot with vibrant hues adorning the infrastructure. Stepping inside many restaurants, hotels, or vendors you’ll likely be led to witness charming courtyards decorated by flora and búcaro fountains.
Guatemala’s population is nearly split between ethnic Latinos and indigenous Mayas, with slightly more of the former. Spanish is the predominant language, but amongst the Mayans there are over 20 different dialects still spoken. Christianity is the foundation of beliefs and values for the majority of people, but the spiritual traditions of Mayan culture are still very prevalent in its communities.
Around Antigua are a bunch of churches and convents, each with its own story. I didn’t learn enough to share anything noteworthy about each, but I did learn of the incredible Holy Week spectacle occurring every spring…maybe a good time to visit. I’ll leave the church names in photo captions as options to explore.
Volcano Treks Around Antigua
Guatemala is home to the most volcanoes in the world, and from Antigua three are visible. Volcán de Fuego is the only of those which remains active. Less than two years ago, Fuego was responsible for the most violent eruption in over 45 years, affecting the lives of more than 1.7 million people, and taking the lives of hundreds.
Hiking Volcán Acatenango
The two non-active volcanoes surrounding Antigua are Volcán de Agua and Volcán Acatenango. Myself and some friends trekked with a small group up Acatenango for a phenomenal overnight camping experience. The journey begins with a 45 min car ride to the launch. From what I remember, the first leg up took about 5 hours, and it was tough.
Those brave enough to engage will traverse four different ecosystems en route to the top at 13,045 feet. The schedule was structured by our guide Moises (who randomly lived in Wisconsin) so that we arrived at our campsite within an hour of sunset. This gave us enough time to admire the panoramic views over the region, and more importantly the fierce activity of Volcán de Fuego, which is positioned just beside Volcán Acatenango.
Considering our proximity to Fuego, its volcanic force humbled us instantly. The persistent rumblings were both admirable and unsettling…like grown man pissing his pants unsettling. It’s safe to say nobody ever sleeps well up there. Several times I woke to fierce vibrations throttling the campsite. Thankfully no wet spots.
Volcanic Viewing
But, before we slept there was a nice little show. At sundown the group gathered around a fire for a meal and a bit of chatter. As we carried on, a storm rolled in and visibility of the volcano’s crater repeatedly came and went quickly.
Waiting patiently, we did catch a few windows to observe the glowing lava gush and trickle down its side. Simultaneously the raging thunderstorm lit the sky to create an incredible juxtaposition of indefensible phenomena. Mind blown.
Although it would be an early rise, I stayed up a bit later than most of the group hoping to see more. The clouds were a real pain in the ass, but my commitment paid off.
I’ve yet to mention Volcán de Pacaya as another active volcano in the area. It’s positioned about 1.5 hours in the other direction from Acatenango, and it isn’t visible from Antigua. But, little did I know, Pacaya is actually visible from the campsite. And, what better time to realize it than the serendipitous moment when I watched both volcanoes spew lava at..the..same..time!!
Morning breath and all, we stumbled out of our tents in anticipation of reaching the summit. The second leg wasn’t quite as tough, but when we got to the top it was insane, and not because of the view!
We were trapped inside of a storm cloud with zero visibility and freakishly powerful winds. Our group lasted the cyclone-like madness for maybe ten minutes at best and descended back for better views of the sunrise.
Guapo GuatemalaSustainability | Made in Antigua
It doesn’t take long to observe and appreciate the commitment to local sustainability in Antigua. Over my two months’ stay, nearly all of the food ate, beers drank, and mementos collected were produced in the area.
Mayan Craftmanship
Touring the streets you’re certain to find Mayan women dressed in traditional huipils. Those same women often sell intricately woven goods and clothing, handmade using methods from over hundreds of years. Friends told me of some great cooperatives which give Mayan women around Guatemala a platform to showcase their work and bring food to the table for their families.
Aliments in Antigua
A long walk or short drive in most directions from Antigua will lead you to a farm of some sort. Coffee farms. Macadamia farms. Organic produce farms. There are plenty of options. At Finca Valhalla you’ll find incredible macadamia nut pancakes and out of this world chocolate. Do it.
All you craft beer drinkers will not leave Antigua thirsty, as there are plenty of local breweries in town. If you’re into mezcal, there’s an edgy little bar called Cafe No Sé. For the bravest of all, ask around to get your hands on the thousand years old Guatemalan spirit known as cusha. Think moonshine, or for my Chinese friends, baijiu.
Locals will tell you every visit to Antigua should include some pepian…as most Guatemaltecos would consider this the national dish. Similar to Mexican mole, pepian is a spicy stew thickened with ground nuts and seeds, smothered over chicken and of course, enjoyed with tortillas and rice.
And if that wasn’t enough, there is an incredible little ice cream shop just beside the centrally located sports bar El Barrio. They have a wide range of flavors. Don’t miss it!
