12 Hour Layover in Ethiopia
Before attending a work conference in Nairobi last year, I managed to sneak in a day trip around Ethiopia’s capital city. With little to no plan I landed in Addis Ababa half awake and eager to explore what I could. Exiting the airport I was admittedly intimidated by the state of things, but my new friend from Rotate Ethiopia Tours put my nerves at ease with his upbeat spirit and prolific language skills. As a native English speaker I sometimes forget to appreciate this huge advantage we have traveling abroad.
As we navigated the chaotic city streets it was impossible to not feel a deep sense of empathy amongst the suffocating poverty…yet another blessing so often overlooked in the west. It seemed clear that a few years without tourism in the COVID-19 pandemic was debilitating to a country whose economy is quite dependent on it.
The first stop with my guide Eshetu was at the National Museum of Ethiopia. I don’t like to give my opinions on museums often because I’m just not that smart. In general I’d rather be outside exploring nature or walking the city streets…but the unique artifacts are definitely worth a look. And, for those who aren’t of the faithful mindset that this world has a Creator, you’ll likely enjoy the remains of an allegedly 3.2 million year old hominid fossil named Lucy that’s on display.
Moving on from the museum we hustled towards the Entoto Hills for panoramic views of the city. Unfortunately some impeding urban donkeys coupled with stormy weather prevented any chance at a clear vantage point. But we didn’t let that kill our vibe, cause there was elite in the world coffee to drink while the aroma of Ethiopian frankincense soothed all anxieties.
And then the wait was over, it was finally time to eat. It had been years since I last ate Ethiopian food and to say I was ready would be an understatement. My mouth watered at the thought of ripping through that traditional bread and scooping up all the spicy meat and vegetables.
You’ve probably seen injera at some point. It’s a sour and spongy flatbread that looks like a thin pancake. The Ethiopians lay it on a platter, followed by a few selections of meat and a tasty side of lentils, beans, or greens. If you aren’t an adventurous eater and the idea of eating unusual delicacies doesn’t sit well, I’d advise you to ask some questions ahead of time. I’m pretty sure we ate ground up goat intestines, but with all the right spices it goes down real nice!
After lunch the thought of jumping back in the madness to pursue city markets and cathedrals wasn’t compelling, so Eshetu drove us to a nearby spot where his friends hang out. On arrival I pulled up a plastic stool and snatched a handful of khat leaves we found along the way. The Ethiopian men will apparently just sit for hours chewing and chopping it up…and the curiosity of a culture vulture made it obligatory to indulge…”when in Rome“.
The stimulant effect from the plant was dull…or maybe I was still out of it from the 14 hour flight? Hard to say. Regardless we had our fill and moved on to another spot to chill and escape the pesky rain. My final request to Eshetu was to enjoy a little shisha before the flight, so my brother from another mother came through with the perfect experience.
I don’t really know how to describe where we ended up, because it might’ve been somebody’s apartment? It was a small room in a gated compound with a few low seating lounges, relaxing music, and very kind people. And the service was unlike any other I’ve seen…they kept us fresh and heated! Peace and love abundant.
My time in Addis Ababa was short but hiring Eshetu for a daily tour made it undeniably sweet. Without a doubt there is far more to experience outside the capital city…just be sure to stay current on the status of ethnic conflicts in the planning process. God willing I hope to come back and hang with my fellow Christian brothers amongst all of Ethiopia’s incredible natural beauty and Biblical history!
