Moscow Is For Maslenitsa and Matroyshkas
Let’s talk about Russia. Some would say I picked a terrible time to travel to a country whose government is in longstanding conflicts with the USA. True, the trade sanctions ordered by Washington have paralyzed the Russian economy and allegedly created an even greater Anti-American sentiment amongst the population. According to a source, close to half of the expat population has already vacated Moscow to evade the disaster.
Moscow…The Stoic and Symbolic Capital of Russia
But to be honest, I felt no such anger from the people. On numerous occasions people were willing to help. The encounter that stands out the most was with a woman who actually walked us to the exact spot we were looking for. A unexpected fifteen minute walk in the middle of her day, and she happily volunteered to show us around…what a way to represent your country. With that in mind and a struggling economy, I truly think I couldn’t have picked a better time to go! The ruble has devalued by 80%, making it quite affordable! Any other year, this is one of the most expensive destinations in the world.
Red Square, The Heart of Moscow
The first stop had to be at St. Basil’s Cathedral in Red Square. I still remember the first time I laid eyes on it and how absolutely fascinated I was by the colorful onion-shaped domes. I’ve truly never seen anything like it. When the sun is shining, you can’t help but stare.
As we walked around Red Square we made a stop at a little festival being held for Maslenitsa. The week before lent, as recognized each year by the Russian Orthodox Church, is designated as a time to indulge. The tradition of this festival is to eat copious amounts of pancakes. Easy for me to fit in here! I had my fair share of pancakes, my favorite being the ones stuffed with cottage cheese. Big surprise, it’s the Wisconsin in me.
Maslenitsa and Matroyshkas
The festival offered different activities, including ice skating, sausage roasting, and an awkward game of ‘tug of war’. Of course there were loads of Matroyshka dolls for sale. You’ll be relieved to know they even slapped Putin on one. I don’t know if I was more shocked to see him on the doll itself, or the fact that it wasn’t of him mounted shirtless on a horse! The guy just doesn’t make a lot of wise decisions, does he? It’s no mystery that the reason his country is suffering is directly related to his refusal to leave Ukraine. But then again, if history serves as any indication, the Russians haven’t had many leaders that make decisions for the welfare of the people.
We moved on to do a tour of Moscow’s renowned metro stations. When the infrastructure for the metro system was installed in 1935, it was the Soviet Union’s first underground railway. Needless to say, the decor of the stations was boldly inspired by the hammer and sickle. Each station is unique within itself, architecturally assembled with beautiful marble walls and high ceilings holding spectacular chandeliers.
The Delusion of Communism
A great deal of history surrounds what most would assume is just another mode of transportation. Foreseeing the need people have for cheap transportation, Stalin saw an opportunity to gracefully brainwash his people. He ordered the architects to develop stations that manipulated emotions of a brilliant future. In addition, several speeches were made to the people from the platforms of high traffic areas…the purpose likely being to solidify their confidence. Was he a bit of a control freak? No doubt. But after only a short time in the city, I can see how effective it was.
As we bounced around more there were various Stalin statues, Lenin mosaics, and a complete collection of Communist propaganda, all of which gave the people something to believe in…or should I say the ONLY thing to believe in.
Lose Your Pre-Conceived Notions of Russia
Although there’s no better way to label yourself as the typical tourist, I often find it helpful to locate a “hop on-hop off” bus in each city I travel to. It’s an efficient and relatively inexpensive to way to get a quick preview of the major attractions. Survey and choose which of the sites you want to see the most as you take the first lap around the city, and explore each allocated stop as you make your second trip around. I actually find it quite nice, especially when it’s bitterly cold and you’re looking for intervals to warm up and recharge.
I found one of the most meaningful pieces of art in a small park near the Moscow River. It’s a collaboration of thirteen sculptures, together holding the all encompassing title, “Children Are The Victims of Adult Vices“. I don’t think you need to appreciate art to fully understand the power of this piece. From left to right…Drug Addiction. Prostitution. Theft. Alcoholism. Ignorance. Irresponsible Science. Indifference. Propaganda of Violence. Sadism. Those Without Memory. Child Labor. Poverty. War.
Reflections on My Adoption
Each statue a symbol of how children are shaped and evolved by their adult counterparts. At first, I had the most horrible feeling as I studied each sculpture. The artist did great work to create this emotion for those who choose to study piece’s detail. But after a while, I couldn’t help but be overwhelmed with gratitude because I thought about how different my life could have been. I am truly blessed to have been adopted into a family that has loved me unconditionally. Better yet, I’ve been able to hold existing relationships with members of my biological family! How did I deserve such fortune?
There are so many children who are relegated to adoption, some for good reasons and some for bad. I’d be sick to discover the amount of adopted children that are exposed to not only one, but several of these issues on a daily basis. Bottom line, although much has been taken away, I find solace in the things I do have. A tough perspective to grasp, but certainly one that just has a way of making life seem so much simpler.
Multiple Heartfelt Moments in Moscow
Next stop was at the Cathedral of Christ The Savior, an unbelievably beautiful place. It was constructed in the 1990’s, following the demolition of the previous church which was ordered by Stalin. I have to admit, I had no idea that the Russians were this religious! Maybe it’s a result of my fascination with seeing places of worship, but there are no games being played amongst members of the Russian Orthodox Church. I was warned about pictures…but I’ll let you guess whether or not I abided. As I walked around, the emotion felt from the people is contagious. Men and women alike, in deep prayer presenting genuine worship. Tears rolled down from the eyes of highly unsuspecting men, a sight I didn’t expect to see from a Russian with a tough outer shell.
The second full day was capped off with some sushi and shisha. If you haven’t noticed, I’ve made it a priority to explore the different options around the world. It’s always interesting to see how each country differs in terms of interest level, quality, and ambiance. This place in Moscow was top notch. It was Japanese in the sense that you remove your shoes and make your way to a private area. Each space created an ambiance of peace with dimly lit screen lamps and pillows to relax. Shisha was served in a fruit bowl…great taste and smooth as molasses. Needless to say we made a return visit before heading home!
The Kremlin
Anyone who visits Moscow has to visit the Kremlin. It is here that Putin resides. The complex of the palace, cathedrals, and government buildings is positioned on the banks of the Moscow River, providing some amazing panoramic views. The sheer size of it is quite intimidating, let alone the visions I kept having of Stalin or Lenin either corralling or executing thousands of people in the square. I still can’t wrap my head around what it was like to be a part of that.
Inside The Armoury were hundreds of years of history; imperial crowns, thrones, carriages, and armor. Further, there was an impressive collection of diamonds and other jewels, as well as the infamous gold Faberge eggs. Altogether it’s quite the collection of talented craftsmanship from all over the world. The cathedral square hosts three separate neighboring churches, and is mostly known as the spot for funeral processions of past tsars and the inauguration ceremony of the president.
A Culture Rich in The Arts
To entertain the slightly artistic side of me, I made an effort to get tickets to the Bolshoi Theatre. If hearing that name does nothing for you, don’t feel uncultured because you aren’t alone. The multitude of art and theatre talent in Russia was mostly news to me as well. I had no idea the Russians carried such a strong interest. But I guess that’s why I travel…to learn. Unfortunately it’s nearly impossible to just show up and get tickets to the one of the world’s leading opera and ballet companies, so I had to settle for a show down the street at a much less renowned theatre. Nonetheless, it was still great to experience a country’s passion firsthand.
The last day in Moscow was spent exploring a few different parks, The Muzeon and Gorky Park. Muzeon is full of pieces that really interested me, those from communist reign. I walked along the river past several statues and sculptures of influential figures of those days, most notably Stalin and Lenin of course. There were some truly stoic pieces that resonate a demanding sense of power. Gorky Park is meant to rival Central Park in New York City. Considering the fact I haven’t seen both, I have no basis to judge. But I did find Gorky Park to be the place that connects the community of Moscow. Activities of every sort cater to different individuals interested in arts, sports, or just a peaceful space for meditation.
On to St. Petersburg, The Venice of Russia
The bullet train to St. Petersburg was about 3.5 hour journey, and a much better experience than the flight from Beijing to Moscow. Although it was both inexpensive and direct, this Transaero plane was the worst experience to date. When I found my seat, there was so little space that I literally could not move my legs. Now I’m not extremely tall, but certainly big enough to need space for leg adjustments throughout an 8 hour flight.
My suspicions of an ill-advised cabin layout were confirmed when I stood up to use the bathroom and many of the even shorter Chinese were sprawled out all over the aisles. My apologies for the time you just wasted reading about my travel discomfort, but I had to get it off my chest. St. Petersburg, also known as the “Venice of The North” and Russia’s second largest city, is an extravagant destination situated on the Baltic Sea. As we ate breakfast at the hotel, the view allowed a peak at the “Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood”. I guess we know where to go first!
Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood
The church was built in the late nineteenth century, and as a symbol of medieval Russian architecture is a stunning sight to see. Incredible detail and use of color, a true masterpiece of art and devotion to God. A total of 7500 square meters of mosaics makes it the most in any church around the world. No wonder it cost over 4.5 million rubles to build! In each cathedral I’ve seen around the world, the most impressive work of art can always be found at the position underneath the central dome.
The State Hermitage
The charm and elegance of the city only progressed as we made a visit to The State Hermitage, which is one of the largest and oldest museums in the world. I’m really not a big museum guy, as I appreciate being on a cliff overlooking the ocean far more. But this was impressive. I’ll save you the time by electing to not attempt explaining the profound stature of this place. I’m sure the pictures will do it more justice regardless.
The size of it reminds me of The Louvre in Paris. Visitors are guaranteed to get lost in the maze of art. I’m not positive, but after 3-4 hours I would guess only half of it had been seen. But at that point, my body shifts into zombie mode anyways, lacking the ability to appreciate it and solely focused on moving on. Either way, I got to see Van Gogh and Picasso, and I left feeling more than satisfied.
The Palate of Russia
Russia certainly has no shortage of magically constructed cathedrals. After a few more stops at St. Isaac’s and the Kazan Cathedral, it was time for some good eating. Indulgence would be an understatement. Fresh eggplant, salmon-filled crepes, beef stroganoff, and of course some traditional bloody-red Borscht.
What better way to allow a meal like that to digest than to find a nice shisha spot! We stumbled into a little gem on the way back. The manager was a cool Egyptian guy who married a Russian girl and has created a nice life for himself in Russia. It’s pretty safe to say the Egyptians know how to do shisha. After all, the Arabs did invent the apparatus. Fortunately there was a little corner space available with pillows and cushions to relax and unwind from a full day of exploring. A great time indeed.
The weather in St. Pete’s was far from desirable. As the city sits on the Baltic coast, suffocating winds off the water are of the norm. Add to that a mix of rain and clouds to block the sun, and prepare yourself for a battle with the elements. Trips over bridges were a struggle, but necessary to reach the Peter and Paul Fortress.
Peter and Paul Fortress
For hundreds of years, this place was used as a prison. Several terrorists and rebels from many revolutions within Russia had all been imprisoned here. The most impressive piece of knowledge was how prisoners communicated by creating a “Tapping Alphabet“. For those housed in single cells, this was their only option. Letters in alphabetical order were accumulated in a table of six lines and five columns. Each letter was tapped in two steps; first, number of a line, then number of a column. Pretty creative stuff. Ironically enough, there’s also a cathedral within the complex that houses the graves of some of the country’s most beloved figures, including “Peter The Great” and “Catherine The Great”. You don’t need to be a history buff to know who they are.
Russia exceeded expectations in every way imaginable.
